Kurapia performs well in covering highways and highway shoulders, roofs, public facilities areas, commercial real estate and solar farm landscapes. But little is known about its performance in the desert climate.
This is an ongoing discussion about kurapia as a substitute for turfgrass. Kurapia is not a grass, but a low-speed growing herbaceous perennial ground cover (shrub), which is considered a weed in the lawn.
Kurapia performs well in covering highways and highway shoulders, roofs, public facilities areas, commercial real estate and solar farm landscapes. But little is known about its performance in the desert climate.
It cannot completely replace functional lawn grasses such as sports fields. Keep in mind that the visual replacement of turfgrass does not imply resistance to wear and play. When replacing lawns with any type of ground cover, consider the degree of wear and tear of the lawn.
I received the following information about locally grown kurapia from a local turf company that supplies turfgrass to the Las Vegas Valley.
“We at Valley Sod started investigating Kurapia about two years ago and planted an acre of material on our farm in Sandy Valley. During this time, we learned how plants grow and how to deal with different temperature and soil conditions.
"These plants are exposed to temperatures of 18 to 116 degrees on the farm. In any of these extreme conditions, the plants did not enter a dormant state (or turn brown). In fact, it prefers heat to cold, and it has been from March There is an active growing season until the end of October. It does deal with some shade. In full sunlight, its leaves are small, while in the shade, the leaves are larger. If you want, you can occasionally trim Kurapura. Remove the flowers to make them look more like lawns rather than (flowering) ground cover.
"Valley Sod became the licensed grower of Kurapia two years ago. Due to its drought tolerance and preference for underground irrigation, we expect Kurapia to be an excellent alternative to natural turf."
If you are interested in this alternative, please contact Mike@valleysod.com.
Q: I have a bottle tree that is about 15 years old, and it has grown very well until this summer. The lower branches drooped, and the leaves on some branches turned yellow and seemed to be dying. I water the trees for two hours a week in summer. I use a suction pipe.
Answer: After 15 years, your tree has reached that size with the watering frequency. I don't think this is a watering frequency issue. If the large area under the tree has not been watered for several years, it may be related to watering distribution problems. As the trees become bigger, we must add emitters to them and expand the irrigated area as they get older.
See if the water is close to the trunk of the tree. I encourage you to apply it to at least half of the canopy. Extension staff at the University of Arizona encourage watering the entire area under the canopy, but I think that as long as the tree is stable on the ground, halfway is enough for a big tree like you.
When trees are damaged due to water problems (scorched leaves or dead limbs), we will see that the west or south facing side is most damaged. In some pine trees, the entire branch may die, while the rest of the tree is green. If you haven't changed the location of the applied water for many years, then this may be the problem. But this type of damage is related to water.
What should I do? Move the drip emitters under the tree canopy (or where the water is distributed) so that they are about 18 inches apart and start about 12 inches from the trunk. Add drip irrigation to the area under the tree canopy to distribute water to at least half of the area under the tree.
I don't think this is a disease or insect problem. I used a spiral drip pipe under the established trees, and when the grass was removed, I was lucky. The time remains the same. I just make sure that there are enough transmitters in the spiral so that the tree is not stressed during that time period.
Question: I planted a eucalyptus tree in a container. We are renting out and I am using it because it smells good. This summer, the top began to die, and now the tree is dead. What did i do wrong?
Answer: For the container, the tree grew too big, and eventually it grew too big. This is the cause of death at the top. The roots cannot absorb enough water to support a large amount of top growth. I think it is struggling with the amount of water it gives it.
Either remove the tree and plant something smaller in the container that smells good, or start the tree again. When it gets bigger again, replace it.
Late summer is the time to remove the stem cuttings from that tree and root them, air-stratify them or buy replacement plants. Marcottage or air stratification is more successful on some trees than stem cutting. There are air layered balls to help you with the marcottage work.
Q: Now that the weather is cool, can I reduce my tomatoes and let them continue to produce fruit?
A: Your idea is correct. Tomato plants bear fruit at temperatures of approximately 60 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit. This happens in the garden in spring and autumn.
They will bear fruit at a colder temperature than this, but it takes longer for the fruit to mature. Tomatoes are warm-season vegetables and prefer warm weather to cool temperatures, but they stop bearing fruit from the flowers when the daytime temperature starts at around 95 degrees.
The best plant varieties to prune in autumn are the uncertain types, not the definite ones. If the variety is a trailing type (usually uncertain) rather than a dwarf shrub type (usually determined), both may be effective, but will be more successful.
Tomato plants grown in spring have mature root systems, so they will re-grow and bloom faster than autumn crops grown in late summer. You can grow tomatoes in late summer or early fall, but it will take longer to bear fruit.
Cut enough to promote regeneration and flowering. Usually, about 3 inches is sufficient, and do this at the joints or nodes. Flowering occurs in the new growth a few inches below the cut.
The timing of the cut is crucial, and depending on the autumn weather, the results may be affected or missed, but it is worth a try, especially if your breed is an early type. After cutting, apply mineral fertilizer or tomato food to the plants and water them.
Liquid sprays get results faster than fertilizers applied to the soil and are worth the extra work. But whether it is fertilization or fertilization.
Question: I want a small desert tree to decorate the landscape around my single-story house. I have a mixed septic tank in the front yard, and the roots of my previous trees may have found it.
Answer: You will know whether the root of the plant has entered the septic tank or the leaching field; without your too much input, it will grow like a big gangster. No matter which plant you decide to grow, always plant woody plants away from the septic tank and leaching the field at the same distance as their mature height.
When buying plants, pay attention to their maturity height. Only very short non-woody plants or grasses are used at the top of the extraction site and septic tank. You don't want the roots of any woody plants to block these places.
Small desert plants or low-water consumption plants from arid regions include Texas mountain laurel, desert willow and wattle, and even larger shrubs, such as the Texas Ranger. These shrubs can be pruned into small trees.
Due to plant availability issues, I do not like to recommend specific plants. Because of the online nursery, it is better to choose now, but you must start buying online plants from around September for delivery and planting in January or February.
Q: Why does my lime fruit taste like oranges?
A: When it comes to the cold temperatures in winter, the lime tree is very soft. All citrus trees are grafted onto hardy rootstocks.
Some oranges can tolerate the cold temperatures of winter, while others cannot. Tender citrus trees in winter, such as limes, are grafted onto hardy citrus trees, usually oranges.
Because it freezes in our climate, we choose tender citrus for the Las Vegas market and graft a very hardy rootstock on it. Typically, this rootstock is a hardy orange, such as lime or trefoil orange. If the tender top dies due to cold weather, at least the rootstock will survive and suck.
Linden trees that have not been grafted onto hardy rootstocks or grown with seeds on their own roots may all die in freezing temperatures. If the rootstock survives and the top dies, the rootstock often produces suckers.
Most homeowners don’t notice that they keep suckers and rootstocks alive. The orange sucker begins to bloom a few years later. When you plant a linden tree, this orange sucker will produce orange fruit. Limes are now orange.
Bob Morris is an expert in gardening and an emeritus professor at the University of Nevada in Las Vegas. Visit his blog on xtremehorticulture.blogspot.com. Send questions to Extremehort@aol.com.
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