If you have been paying attention you will have noticed that here in central Oklahoma, climatic conditions of July and August involve high soil temperature, high light intensity, and rapid drying of the soil, resulting in an increase in the problems of getting a uniform stand of plants. Achieving a full stand of plants in the heat of summer may require special treatments. This might include shade over rows when seeded and supplemental watering to reduce soil temperature and aid in seed germination.

In order to achieve proper temperature and adequate moisture, apply mulch over the row following planting and watering or use materials such as screen wire strips, shade cloth, or boards to cover the row. This will moderate both soil temperature and soil moisture. Remove covers after seedling emerges.

Another way to mitigate hostile summer conditions is to dig your rows deeper than in spring planting. Plant seeds in this deeper furrow, cover with soil, water well and put a thin layer of mulch (shredded leaves, grass clippings, etc.). After plants emerge you can add lots more mulch. To conserve water, you can lay a soaker hose alongside the seeds and only water there till seeds are up and established.

I got my cowpeas and beans planted right on time (July 15th – August 1st, but got ahead of myself on planting cucumbers; should have waited till mid-August. So now I have shade cloth over the 4-5’ tall, trellised vines, drip irrigation laid alongside plants and a layer of mulch over entire area. Peas are up and beginning to vine but looks like I’ll have to replant beans to get a good stand.

According to OSU, some vegetables are most easily grown by planting seeds in a small seed flat, setting them in individual containers to grow for approximately one month, and then transplanting them to the garden. Those that respond most favorably to this method of handling include broccoli, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, leaf lettuce, Brussels sprouts, and cabbage. Before setting them in the garden, transplants need to be hardened off (conditioned or toughened by a reduction in the amount of water supplied and by exposure to full sunlight). This might require several days. Plant them in the garden in late afternoon to early evening to reduce transplanting shock. Water the plants as they are set. A water-soluble fertilizer may be used at this time, if necessary—following label directions.

To achieve maximum germination of lettuce seed, the planted and watered seed flat should be kept cool. This can be accomplished by placing the seed flat in a cool (60° to 70°F) location for four or five days, at which time seed may begin germinating. The seedlings should be transplanted to individual containers within a few days.

To some extent, the selection of crops will be influenced by what is presently in the garden and producing, family preference, space, water available for irrigation, and crops adapted for fall production. Some crops that were planted in the spring garden that may continue to produce are tomato, okra, pepper, sweet potato, cowpea, and New Zealand spinach.

Seeds left over from planting the spring garden may be used in planting the fall garden if the seed is stored in a cool, dry location or in a refrigerator or freezer.

Seeds that are stored in the freezer properly should remain viable for many years. Immediately following planting, return surplus seed to the freezer.

In order to get early established growth, you will almost surely need to irrigate; and more than likely will need to continue for quite a while here in central Oklahoma.

Information on drip irrigation may be available from garden centers and county Extension centers. This technique allows an efficient method of irrigation.

Insect pests may come into the fall garden and seriously damage plants within a week. Frequent checks and immediate protective measures must be used. In order for control to be effective, determine what kind or kinds of pests are causing damage.

It would be most beneficial if my two outside members of the Three Dog Circus here at my Two Acre Paradise would eat garden pests rather than trying to catch our honeybees.